Raptor Performance Shift Light
The production team at Raptor Performance shipped us one of their shift lights for an installation article. The shift light that we received is Part # RPSLRSLV013 Red LEDs with silver anodized aluminum finish.
The package comes complete with the shift light, a roll of lead wires and instructions for dip switch setting and how to set the RPM limits for you shift light. This is so straight forward, it takes literally seconds to do. The 2002 Ford Mustang comes equipped with a coil pacs of each spark plug. For that reason, we only need to tie into any one of the coil lead form any one of the coil pacs. We chose to run our wires to the factory PCM location where we could splice into the coil lead from coil pac one, get a good ground and tap into a switched power lead.
Before you even enter the garage, take a second and set the dip switch setting to match your application. Since we are only reading the coil lead from one coil pac, the setting are all dip switches off. Follow the instruction for your application for 6 cylinder, V8 or even 2 cylinder motorcycle settings.
We are now ready to move into the garage and start planning for the installation. Before you do anything, disconnect the batteries negative terminal. You are eventually going to be disconnecting the PCM or computer brain for you vehicle, you do not want to damage this unit or your pocket book is going to scream.
Sit in the driver seat and look at all the possible places that you might like to have the shift light unit installed. If you want it discrete, you might want to hide it inside one of the AC vents. You might want it right in front of you on the steering column. I chose to mount the shift light on the A pillar with it being exposed. The aluminum finish matches the billet add-ons that have been made and it made a nice addition to the car. It is out of the way, yet points directly at your eyes when you are driving. There is no reflection problems, no is it in the way at all.
With our shift light position chosen, we have to remove the A pillar interior body panel. I marked the locaton of the mounting clasp supplied so that we can locate it accurately again. The A pillar panel is held in place by several spring clip retainers and a pin. At the very top of the pillar, near the convertible top lock is the head of a plastic retainer pin. Remove this by sliding a small blade screwdriver underneath the head and wiggling it out of it's position. The top of the A pillar panel will now be free to pull down towards the driver's seat. There is a friction clip at the very top, then a couple of male spring clips that mate with holes in sheet metal inside. Carefully work you way down the panel, freeing each one successively until you are able to remove it completely.
With the panel out of the way (put is somewhere you are not going to step or sit on it) we are ready to start fishing the wire leads over to the passenger side of the car. Start by taping the 3 loose leads together with some electrical tape. This will make your life easier as you fish it through some of the tight spots. We went straight down the pillar so that the lines come out right above the hood latch handle. You may have to have one hand under the dash feeling for dangling wires as you feed with your other hand. Once you have found the ends, pull them through very carefully leaving enough loose lead near the shift light to allow you to change the settings if required. The extra length can be tucked behind the panel until you might need to do this.
With the wire hanging down in the foot well of the driver's side, we started routing the line through the access hole in the console. Some of these holes are punched during manufacturing and have some very sharp edges, expect to skin some knuckles but be careful not to cut your hands up. When you are fishing the wire from one side to the other, take the time to put it about other wires and supports on the way across to prevent it from hanging down after installation is complete.